Planer22install

Thank you for considering "cutting edge technology."

Most woodworkers know that a shear cut is far better than a straight
cut. They also know that a staggered cut is much better than just a
single straight knife and is quieter and a lot easier on your dust collection
system. If you just happen to plane a nail or staple, it is not necessary to
replace expensive knives the full length of your planer head! Replace the
2 or 3 small inexpensive knives and you're ready to go! You might
expect to pay a small fortune for a journal head with these features.
Here at Byrd Tool Corp we can manufacture a journal head to your
specifications for typically a fraction of the cost you might expect. Don't
be fooled by a head that looks like it is helical when the knives are
square with the cut! This is common practice, but our heads are
anything but common, and they have been proven to be the best!

Brush or blow off the chips from the machine and clean the floor
around the machine. If a bolt or washer is dropped, it is so much easier
to find on a clean floor!

Be very careful not to damage the carbide knives while assembling the
head into the machine.

Always use a rubber mallet, deadblow hammer, or a block of wood with
a regular hammer when tapping the cast housing.

Be sure the machine is disconnected from the power source.

Let's get started!

1. After the machine and area have been cleaned, open the top cover by
first removing the 2 bolts on the front of the cover.

2. Disconnect the pneumatic cylinders (one on each side) to allow the
cover to swing backword.

6. Remove the left side cover (pulley side of the machine).

9. Remove the pulley from the end of the cutterhead, being careful to
keep the key on top of the shaft.

8. Remove the two belts by rotating them off the pulleys. It is not
necessary to release the motor tension before doing this.

5. Pull the handwheel straight off taking care not to drop the key
positioned at the top of the shaft.

4. With the handle of the handwheel rotated to the top, loosen the
adjustment lock and remove.

15. Place the handwheel back on the shaft with the key in place and
adjust the table up enough to force the assembly off of the positioning
pins.

10. Remove the key and then remove the spacer from the end of the
shaft.

3. Place a board on the bed of the machine and adjust it up until it comes
in contact with the cutterhead.

13. Remove the two socket head capscrews that are located on each
end of the right-hand assemply.

12. Remove the center socket head capscrew.

11. Remove the nuts from the bottom of the feed roller tensioners. The
spring and cap from the outfeed roller will easily fall off the end of the
threaded shaft. The infeed spring will easily come off later when the top
assemply is lifted.

45. attach the pneumatic cylinder ends for the cover...

21. Be sure old bearings are removed from both assemblies.

20. Gently tap the cutterhead from the pulley end making sure it is
supported by a block so it won't drop to the table. Completely remove
the cutterhead from both assemblies and set it aside.

19. Gently tap off the assembly from the connector rods, rollers,
cutterhead, etc.

18. Remove the roller tension bolts.

17. Once the assembly is propped up by the plywood, remove the front
roller tension spring and caps through the opening in the handwheel
bracket.

16. Place a small strip of 1/2" plywood under the assembly and adjust
the table back down off of the cutterhead.

14. Take out all of the screws from the right hand assemply.

35. Screw in and tighten the center cap screw.

34. Assemble the front roller spring assembly in the same way.

33. Assemble the bottom cap on the front roller spring and screw the
retaining nut on the bottom until approximately 3/4" of threads is
exposed.

31. Lower the table allowing the assembly to drop down and locate on
the positioning pins. Tapping the housing in one direction or another may
be necessary in order for it to properly align and go onto the base. The
pins are visible if you look down through the positioning holes from the
top of the housing.

24. Tap the head into the left side assembly until the bearing is seated
against the lock ring. You may need to adjust the table up or down to
properly align the head to more easily tap it in.

23. With the right side assembly completely removed, gently place the
SHELIX into position and guide the pulley end through the left hand
assembly.

22. If the SHELIX didn't come with new bearings, install the new
bearings before putting the head in the machine. (bearing sizes: 6209
and 6007 sealed or shielded)

25. To allow up to approximately 1/4" depth of cut, remove the feed
restricter bushing by loosening the set screw in it and sliding it off the
end of the rod.

26. Align the assembly that was removed and one by one, starting from
the outfeed end, start the different shafts into their proper holes.
Loosening the shafts from the other end will make it easier to start
them.

27. After all of the shafts are started, continue to tap the end of the
housing until the positioning pins are aligned.

28. While the plywood is still under the housing, start threading the roller
tension bolts into the bottom of the feed roller bearing blocks.

29. Assemble the spring and top cap on the front feed roller tension bolt
guiding it through the hole in the handwheel bracket.

32. Finish tightening both roller tension bolts with an 8mm wrench.

30. Raise the table enough to release the plywood, then remove it.

36. Assemble the two cap screws (one on each end of the housing) and
tighten the assembly to the base.

37. Remove the handwheel again and assemble the side cover.

39. install pulley spacer...

46. Close the cover and replace the two bolts on the front of the cover.

38. Reinstall handwheel...

40. install pulley key...

41. install pulley (be sure pulley extends pat the shaft)...

42. install washer and socket head capscrew in the end of the shaft...

43. roll the belts back on the pulleys...

44. install the left side cover over the belts...